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John Osaki's Blog
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Best time to travel: June - September Best gateway city: Bilbao, Spain Explore the Cantabrian Mountains (Cordillera Cantábrica), a three-hundred mile long range that graces the northern coast of Spain. This trip begins with a selection of hikes in the rugged limestone massifs of the Spanish province of Bizkaia (Vizcaya), part of the Basque region. From Bizkaia, travel to the Picos de Europa, a cluster of high limestone peaks straddling the border between the provinces of Cantabria and Asturias. Here, austere, lunar-like landscapes filled with large, rocky depressions called jous contrast with green mountain meadows (vegas), accented by picturesque tile-roofed majadas (mountain farms). The serene alpine lakes of Covadonga and the narrow defile of the Cares Gorge await your discovery. Immerse yourself in a landscape framed by the soft pink of heather and fronds of bracken fern turned golden by autumn's chill, all jewels in the crown of Cantábria. |
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Day 1 Overnight in Axpe (Bizkaia) Lunch & dinner included After breakfast in Bilbao, travel by vehicle to the Puerto de Urkiola ("Urkiola Pass"), starting point for hikes into the Urkiola Natural Park (Parque Natural de Urkiola) established in 1989 to protect the natural features of the area. From the pass, a gently ascending grassy path leads through open country to the grassy, rounded summit of Urkiolagirre from where you'll relish a panoramic view of the jagged limestone crest of the Sierra de Anboto. Follow a path to the ridge-top Chapel of Santa Barbara overlooking the Atxondo Valley before looping back to the Puerto de Urkiola through a stand of fragrant cedars. For a more challenging outing, you can add a side trip to the highest point on the Sierra de Anboto. Follow steep, rocky path along a narrow ridgeline to the summit of Anboto, home of a legendary Basque goddess. |
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Day 2 Overnight in Axpe (Bizkaia) Breakfast, lunch & dinner included After breakfast, travel by vehicle to the mountain recreation area of Pagomakurra from where trails lead into the Gorbeia Natural Park (Parque Natural de Gorbeia). The park is the largest in the Basque region and centers around the Gorbeia mountain, a large, rounded sandstone massif covered in extensive pastureland standing in contrast to the jagged silhouettes of the peaks of Urkiola Park. Ascend into the limestone Itxina massif by passing through the Ojo de Atxular ("Eye of Atxular"), a natural "hole in the mountain." The trail continues through the labyrinthine expanse of the massif before descending to the lovely meadows at Arraba from where a well-graded mountain track returns you to Pagomakurra. For a more energetic day, you can add a side trip from the Arraba meadows to the summit of Gorbeiagane (4,860 feet), the highest point on Gorbeia topped by a 56-foot high metal cross. Travel by vehicle back to Axpe where a fine meal awaits! |
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Day 3 |
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Day 4 Overnight in Arenas de Cabrales (Asturias) Breakfast, lunch & dinner included Travel from Arenas de Cabrales to the high country lakes of Lago Enol and Lago de la Ercina in the northwestern portion of the Picos de Europa National Park. (This area served as the core of the old Covadonga Mountains National Park, Spain's first national park established in 1918. The park was later expanded and in 1995 was designated as the Picos de Europa National Park.) Today's hike will take you into the heart of the Cornión massif, one of three that make up the Picos de Europa. From the lakes, a trail ascends through a rugged limestone landscape relieved periodically by grassy meadows. It gains the ridge crest at the Collado El Jito where you are met by a stupendous view of the jagged, skyscraping peaks of the Urrieles massif rising beyond the Cares Gorge which falls away below you. The lovely, grassy Vega de Ario and a mountain refuge lie a short distance away. If you're seeking even farther ranging views, follow the steep, rocky path to the summit of the nearby peak of Jultayu from where you can see the small settlement of Cain, 4,700 feet below you, at the southern entrance to the Cares Gorge. Return to the lakes and travel back to Arenas de Cabrales for the evening. |
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Day 5 Overnight in Arenas de Cabrales (Asturias) Breakfast, lunch & dinner included Travel by vehicle to the Covadonga high country near Lago de la Ercina. (En route you'll pass the neo-Romanesque pink stone Basilica de Nuestra Señora de las Batallas at Covadonga, revered as the site on an 8th century battle that marked the beginning of the Reconquista, the re-conquest of Spain from the Moors.) Follow a path ascending through clumps of beech trees and small grassy meadows punctuated with limestone "pavement." The route continues past mountain farms (majadas) to arrive at the new Refugio Vegaredonda. Enjoy a picnic lunch in the meadows. If you desire, continue to the Ordiales Lookout (Mirador de Ordiales). At the mirador, you are essentially atop the western ramparts of the Picos de Europa where glorious views over the the valley of the Rio Dobra spread out below you. The base of the mirador serves as the final resting place of Pedro Pidal who was instrumental in the establishment of the Picos de Europa National Park. Spend the evening in the mountain town of Arenas de Cabrales. |
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6 Overnight in Arenas de Cabrales (Asturias) Breakfast, lunch & dinner included Today you'll enjoy one of the most spectacular canyon walks in Europe in the deep and narrow Cares Gorge (Garganta del Cares). You'll start the hike at the small settlement of Poncebos at the northern entrance to the Cares Gorge, a short ride from Arenas de Cabrales. Here, you find the picturesque Puente de la Jaya, an old gothic-arched stone footbridge spanning the Cares River. At first, the trail ascends steadily, then drops to find a nearly level contour on the canyon's western wall. For much of the way, the trail has been blasted into the canyon walls about 500 feet above the streambed. The trail is well-maintained and the views are glorious throughout the walk. Whether you hike the entire gorge all the way to Cain, or decide to go only part way, you'll understand why this walk is a true Picos de Europa classic! |
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Day 7 Overnight in Viñon (Cantabria) Breakfast, lunch & dinner included Hike into the the Urrieles massif, perhaps the most dramatic of the three mountain groups that make up the Picos de Europa. Travel from Cangas de Oñis to Poncebos from where you can either hike a steep trail, or catch newly built underground funicular, to the isolated mountain settlement of Bulnes. Enjoy a walk in the vicinity of Bulnes before returning to Poncebos either by funicular or via the trail. For a more strenuous trail adventure, you can hike into the very heart of the Urrieles massif. This trail leads steadily up through green meadows and eventually breaks out into open, rocky terrain before reaching the Refugio J. Delgado Ubeda set in the rocky meadow of the Vega de Urrieles at the base of the Naranjo de Bulnes, a massive limestone monolith and the signature peak of the Picos de Europa. In the afternoon, travel to Cantabria's Liebana Valley and a small mountain hamlet nestled on the eastern slopes of the Andara massif. Enjoy a three-night stay and sample typical foods of the region. |
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8 Overnight in Viñon (Cantabria) Breakfast, lunch & dinner included Ascend by cable car from Fuente De to the upper terminus at El Cable. Follow the path as it leads through the lunar-like limestone landscape of the depression called the Hoyos de Lloroza. The route continues up the Canal de San Luis to gain the pass of Colladina de las Nieves (herds of chamois, or rebecos, are often seen in this area). A short distance beyond, the summit of Pico de la Padierna offers astounding almost aerial views over the green meadows of the Vega de Liordes to the south. To the west, the jagged peaks of the Cornión massif march across the horizon. For a more challenging hiking option ascend the steep, switchbacking trail up the Canal de Embudo to the Vega de Liordes. Continue ascending to reach the summit of the Pico de la Padeirna. Enjoy the views before descending via the Canal de San Luis to the upper station of the Fuente De cable car. Descend by cable car to the starting point and return to Viñon by vehicle. |
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Day 9 Overnight in Viñon (Cantabria) Breakfast, lunch & dinner included Today, hike to the remote mountain village of Tresviso via the winding Ruta de Tresviso, an old mining track that ascends in great switchbacks from the depths of the canyon of the Rio Deva to the highlands of the Andara massif. This trail was for years the only means of transporting goods between Tresviso and the population centers of the lowlands. Completing the walk involves some 2,600 feet of elevation gain, but otherwise the hike presents no difficulties. If you prefer, you can hike the route in the opposite direction to enjoy superb views over a landscape of precipice and canyon. This hike is another Picos de Europa classic! |
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10 Overnight in Bilbao (Bizkaia) Breakfast, lunch & dinner included After breakfast, depart Viñon and travel to a small farming hamlet in the hills above the town of Potes. An old farm track ascends through dry woods and meadows eventually reaching a ridge crest where glorious views of the Picos de Europa await. Descend through dry oak forests where you'll see some fine specimens of chestnut trees. Arrive at the mountain village of Tudes from where the trail continues its descent through cork oak woodlands (unusual for this latitude) finally arriving at Potes. If you prefer, you can undertake a shorter version of this walk from Tudes to Potes. From Potes, travel by vehicle back to the Bilbao. A Basque folklore performance and dinner tops off your Picos de Europa adventure! (Your breakfast the following morning is included.) |
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| Seeing Bilbao | |||||||||||
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The pedestrian-only Zubizuri Bridge connects the north and south banks of the River Nervion in the vicinity of the Guggenheim Museum. | ||||||||||
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Typical facade in Bilbao's Casco Viejo ("Old Quarter"). For hiking books and maps, check out the Libreria Borda (bookstore) in the Casco Viejo. | ||||||||||
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Seen from the heights of Artxanda, Bilbao city lights glimmer as dusk falls on the peaks of the Durangaldea in the distance. | ||||||||||
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